Fun with iPhone 4 Button Replacements

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The third adventure into the bowels of this phone was for very good reason: Both the home and lock buttons were barely working. The first one that went was the lock button, and this happened months ago. One day it decided that it was no longer interested in clicking, barely moved, and was clearly sitting lower in its socket. Given enough force, it would do its duty, but I had to press extremely hard. Asking the Google machine what to do, I didn't find a single reasonable answer for a fix besides walking into an Apple store with puppy-dog eyes hoping for an exchange for a refurb. I rummaged around iFixit's teardowns and finally decided that I'd order a replacement button. That didn't go so well, as explained here in detail, since this part is actually just the cover of the actual button. The next logical part to replace was the cable assembly and contact that interface with this button cover, which I describe below. I also ordered a new home button assembly. When the parts arrived it was time to completely tear down the device, and according to the picture below, also do some heavy drinking?

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What they don't tell you in the how-to's and teardowns, is that you're going to lose these dozens of tiny screws that hold all these components together, get them all mixed up, accidentally inhale them, etc. Solution: Line up a bunch of shot glasses, as shown above. Each set of screws goes in a shot glass, and line them up in the order that they came out in. This makes putting the phone back together much easier and with much lower risk of losing something. And in the event things go terribly wrong, you can drown your sorrows in some top shelf booze; you're already set up for it.

Once I had everything apart and reviewed the teardowns online again, it was very clear that the issue was the little button hidden underneath the metal button cover. It lives on a small, funny looking flex board along with the proximity sensor, ambient light sensor, and noise cancelling mic. The lock button section wraps around a metal bracket that screws to the top of the case, butting up against the metal button cover. The replacement part comes with a mild adhesive already applied and protected by peel-away pink plastic sheets. iFixit has fantastic step-by step tutorials on how to pull this thing apart; if it's your first time, definitely check this out.

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The image above shows the replacement flex assembly (right) next to the freshly removed faulty one (left). Unfortunately, the foam ring on the original flex is where the earpiece speaker sits and it gets completely destroyed when you remove the speaker. The remnants are also nearly impossible to peel off intact, so the earpiece speaker will no longer be sitting on anything unless you fashion a replacement out of some similar material. The same is true for the black plastic piece right above this foam ring in the photo, still stuck to the flex. It covers a few resistors and a cap behind the sensors, but I didn't have any adhesive on hand to attach it to the replacement. Had I done a thorough job instead of half-assing it, I would have transferred this piece over to the new part.

Moving on, the replacement of the flex assembly went quickly once the phone was disassembled. Everything tucked into its correct spot rather easily, and the adhesive that was already applied to it helped quite a bit with keeping it in its place. I've never been more excited to click a button. Once the bracket that holds it in place was fastened to the case, I pressed and released to the beautiful, almost sexy, tune of a button click. Works like a charm now - just like new. 

Now on to the home button...

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There are two problems with my home button: It takes significant force to get it to register a click, and when it registers, sometimes it registers multiple clicks. This can get really irritating, and makes flipping between apps (a double click) difficult. Luckily, the entire button assembly is just one part. Unluckily, you need to take the display off of the phone, which requires the most extensive teardown. 

To replace the home button, you have to go a step further and pop the screen off (reference). The home button has a metal dome underneath it that does the clicking and the entire assembly sits on a circular metal disc. A little flex connector sneaks out from underneath, passes through a hole in the front of the phone, and locks into a very tiny connector on the back side. I tested the new button out a few times before putting it in, and it seemed to be clicking fine. However, when I was ready to put it in, it no longer clicked. Womp womp, must have been defective. The original button still had some clickeyness to it, so I put it back in after cleaning off the contacts with a little alcohol. After reassembling the phone, I found the issue to persist, so cleaning the contacts may not have helped. It's also possible that the metal disc under the home button isn't an electrical contact. This is likely since the metal disc clicks as part of the button appears to be covered with a thin layer of plastic. I should have checked if it was indeed exposed metal with a multimeter; this button could be completely self contained. I suppose I'll know once I have another go at replacing it with a new button.

The next day I got an email from iFixit checking to see if I was happy with my order. I explained what went down with the replacement home button and they immediately shipped me out a replacement at no charge. Fantastic service, I'm very impressed. I've yet to have another go at it, but will soon enough.

I also noticed this:

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The moisture indicator right behind the docking connector, well, indicated moisture. At some point some liquid got in that connector, and that's never good. It very well could be why this button failed if it got all the way into the tiny home button connector nearby.

Even though I still have this issue with the home button, it's fantastic to have a working lock button again. It's taken a few days to get used to not smashing it down to get it to work, but I'm learning, slowly.  

iPad 2 Release Day in Nashua, NH

It's another one of those days again. A very exciting day for those who love to bask in the warm glow of Apple's latest piece of hardware. I had told everyone that I wasn't going to upgrade, instead waiting for the release of HP's WebOS tablet this summer, but the thought of having last years hardware was just too hard to bear. After collapsing under the unstoppable and overwhelming mental forces of early adopter syndrome, I quickly made my decision: a 64GB white WiFi iPad 2 with a black leather smart cover was in my future. Boom. 

What was unique about this particular product's launch was both the availability and the timing. For the original iPad, you could place your order online and receive the product on release day. Also, it was only available from Apple. With iPad 2 there were no pre-orders for release day delivery. Instead of a morning launch, it was a 5PM launch, and instead of just Apple stores carrying it, Best Buy, Walmart, Target, Verizon, and AT&T stores had them as well. I would have preferred to have it delivered rather than wait in line, but that wasn't a release day option. Lame.

I rolled into the Pheasant Lane Mall in Nashua a little after 1PM to check out the state of things. In Target, a few employees were milling around the electronics section cutting up little strips of paper with various iPad models written on them. They were allowing a line to form starting at 2, handing out the papers first-come-first-serve so everyone was guaranteed a particular model to purchase at 5PM. They were all hush hush on how many of each model they had in stock, but did concede that they had one of every SKU, including the 64GB white WiFi model. So then I wandered down to the Apple store, only to find a ridiculous line 100+ deep.

Front of the line at ~1:30PM, 3/11/11 at the Nashua Apple store.
Approximately 100 people deep. Check out the guy first in line, chillaxing bro. 

Well, that's not going to happen. As a risk reduction strategy, I hopped back into my car and took off to the Target in a much less accessible location - Amherst Street. See, the Apple store and Target in the mall are super close to the border, so you get a huge influx of Massachusetts folk looking to escape taxation. By going to a store further away, I figured I would have a much better chance of them still having the model I want once in line. Welp, I was wrong. They had a total of 10 in stock, 5 of the 16GB WiFi devices in black and another 5 of the 32GB WiFi devices in white. By the time I got back to the original Target, a line had formed. It was all of 5 people deep, and I received my very official looking reservation slip. #winning


I immediately got in trouble with Target security for taking pictures, but only with my very obvious T2i. In line I met a gent who was buying the first of many iPads for use at his company to help technicians with the assembly of medical cables. He was all pumped up about these folks FaceTime-ing with their counterparts in China to work through issues on the floor. It sounded like a great idea; this is going to be a really great device for enterprise use. I also met (er, re-met) @Tu13es in line, while we passed the next 3 hours making Galaxy Tab jokes and trying to figure out how we were going to get smart covers (this Target had none in stock). This particular store received a mix of 30 devices and had a line significantly longer than 30 people. The last ones to go, ironically enough, were the 64GB white WiFi devices. 

 

At about 10 of 5, a security guard appeared rolling out a giant cage with a few stacks of iPads secured inside. Watching them open that thing was like watching the opening scene in Jurassic Park.

SECURE IPAD CAGE

No more than 5 minutes after 5PM, it was my turn at the register. Upon surrendering my super official ticket, I was presented with a delightful new toy and a significantly less delightful bill. And during my purchase, I snagged a sneaky photo of the cage.



During checkout, the cashier asked me if I was an Apple employee. Apparently all the Target staff thought I was, and were all very confused with why I was there. I thought it was hilariously ridiculous, but then I realized that I was dressed exactly like an Apple store employee (complete with an Apple shirt from Cupertino), was on an iPhone the whole time, and had a hefty DSLR strapped to my body. I don't mind being a super fanboy for these types of events though; apparently I'm playing the part well. 

All in all it was very successful. The wait was reasonable, I had the device 5 minutes after it was publicly launched, I didn't get robbed in the parking lot, and I got to tell the cashier that I was here to pick up my Samsung Galaxy Tab. 

As I was driving home, the clouds parted, ending the dreary, rainy day. I then did what any reasonable person would do in that situatino; I had a sexy sunset iPad photo shoot. First impressions on the device itself to come later.


Lock Button Replacement Failure for iPhone 4 - Sadface


-- Update: I finally fixed this thing and wrote a guide. --


Mysteriously, a few weeks ago the lock button on my iPhone 4 decided not to move any more. It's not really stuck, it just lost it's "popping" ability. This is a tremendous annoyance. Fortunately, given enough force in the right direction it will still lock the screen and I can still power down as necessary. I went off and scoured the intartubes looking for quick fixes and came up with nothing other than an iFixit step-by-step guide to replacing the button. The replacement parts from Direct Fix, along with a bag of spare screws and a few extra prying tools, arrived this week. 


It's difficult to tell that there's something wrong with the button by looking at it, but it appears to be more recessed than usual. 

There's not much to the replacement 'button'. In fact, it's just the part you touch; the actual electrical contact is not included. It has this little hinged bar attached to it that moves freely 90 degrees. 



Should you want to operate on your phone as well, note that iFixit left out a critical set of tools that you need for any iPhone 4 disassembly: A bunch of shot glasses. These serve two purposes. 
  1. As you take the phone apart you can separate each set of screws and chunk of electronics in an orderly row of shot glasses. When you finish and begin reassembling the phone, work your way backwards through them. The screws are super small and easy to lose, plus they're all different sizes. If you don't stay organized you'll mix the screws up, lose them, or both. 
  2. If you end up ruining your phone and realize that a new one will set you back about $700 off contract, you can use these same shot glasses to get blackout drunk very quickly. 
Here's the setup:


I ended up using 9 or so shot glasses in this process (a screen replacement will require several more), so I had a few extra. When replacing my screen a while ago, I found doing the work on a white work surface helped with keeping track of the tiny screws that you sometimes have to shake out of the phone. 

I'll spare you the details of tearing this thing apart because the steps are meticulously detailed here, but it wasn't hard to extract the 'broken' button. I was expecting to see something wrong with the button when I removed it, but it was identical to the replacement part I purchased. Upon closer inspection, I found that the replacement part was missing a circular metal shim that looks necessary to touch the electrical contact inside the phone. In the pictures below, the left button is the replacement part and the right one is what was removed from the phone.


So that's no good. Digging around the intartubes was no further help, until in an act of sheer desperation I "Binged" my question and got some new results that the Google machine hadn't found for me. Bravo Microsoft, bravo. Turns out that SW-Box sells a replacement button that comes with a "Power Switch Button Sticker", which could very well be the piece of metal that goes in that depression. Without this shim, it looks unlikely that this button will be able to touch the contact that sits below it. I tried removing it, in case it was a piece that broke off of the contact, but it appears to be glued in there. 

In the interest of due diligence, I inspected all the involved parts of the phone, tried out the new button, tried out the old one, and got nowhere. Everything looks fine inside. The button contact assembly mounts flush up against screw posts and nothing is lose. It is possible that the aluminum bracket the contact is mounted on is slightly bent, but it appears unlikely. What really drives me nuts is that I have no idea where the clicking action should happen! The mechanism that does this is the part that is broken and needs to be replaced. After a quick search I didn't find a replacement button contact assembly, which is likely where the clicking mechanism lives, but I'm sure they're available. Once I get that, I'll pull the thing apart and try again. If you have any suggestions or ideas, hit up the comments below this post.

This is the second time I've disassembled this entire device, and I'm getting nervous to continue doing it. I don't imagine that the various connectors in there are designed for more than a handful of make/breaks...

Update: I finally fixed this thing and wrote a guide.

WiFi Upgrade Time at the Mountain Compound

There's quite a bit going on in my home network: Main workstation PC, a media server PC, a couple of iDevices, an AT&T microcell, several Apple Airport Expresses, an Apple TV, PS3, Wii... you get the picture. All of these devices are on a single 2.4GHz network, except for the PS3, Apple TV, and Wii, which are on the wired LAN. The most important thing I use my wireless network for is for whole-house music streaming. Using an iPhone or iPad as the remote for iTunes running on my media PC, music is streamed to three Airport Expresses and an Apple TV connected to powered speakers. Musical delight ensues. Second to this are file transfers from my main PC to my media PC that also performs local back-up duties. Lastly, all of these devices need to get on the internet to download files, browse the web, stream Netflix, or push files to Mozy for backup. Lately there have been some problems cropping up. I can't complain about the data rates between the non-PCs, but things aren't going so well on the PC to PC and PC to intertubes fronts. 

I've been using a Linksys WRT54GL with DD-WRT firmware for several years and it's been great. This open source firmware is a drastic improvement over Linksys' build and I strongly suggest flashing your router firmware to this if it's compatible. For a several months I ran a D-Link DIR-655 Draft N router with gigabit LAN, but that guy started having all sorts of issues and I switched back to the Linksys. It's been that way ever since. Sadly, I think she's on her last legs and it's time she's replaced by a much younger, sexier, and bandwidthier gal. 

Here are the issues currently plaguing my network:

  • PC to intartubes connection has started acting up. For minutes at a time the PC connection will stall and I can't even get out a ping. While this is happening, I can sometimes browse the web on the same network from another device. This has been happening much more recently and is due to Windows, the WiFi card, or the router. This is EXTREMELY frustrating.
  • Most of my Airport Expresses think they're not on the network anymore, but will play music anyway. Super weird; they blink yellow demanding a network connection but have no problem connecting to iTunes and blasting The Graduate throughout the house. This could be due to the devices themselves or the router. 
  • These same Airport Expresses will decide they're no longer connected to the network and the only fix is to power cycle the router; sometimes twice before they're recognized again.
  • File transfers between PCs max out at about 1MBps, and occasionally 3. This is embarrassingly slow, and something I like to keep secret. 
  • Microwaving delicious treats jams my streaming music. Thanks to the FCC for making sure my microwave isn't blasting me with 2.4GHz cancer rays. EMI fail. This is a 2.4GHz WiFi problem that can be eliminated by moving everything up to 5GHz N. 
This is all very annoying. Since the router is pretty old and I'm tired of debugging it's time to upgrade. The non-negotiable requirements for the new device are as follows: 
  • Simultaneous dual-band 2.4GHz and 5GHz radios. I want all my 5 GHz N capable devices on this network, while maintaining the 2.4GHz network for things that aren't. Getting both PCs on 5GHz N will significantly increase transfer rates between machines.
  • Gigabit LAN ports. For goodness' sake it's 2011, get that 10/100 stuff out of my face.
When I started taking a gander on Newegg for what was available, I was shocked and delighted by the additional features that are being included in the higher end models. I love the idea of 'Guest networks' that keep your buds' phones and laptops sandboxed in their own network, keeping your own completely separate and secure. Built in USB NAS is also pretty slick; makes network backups much easier. So far, I'm looking at the following models. They're all simultaneous dual-band and have gigabit LAN, as I've demanded.
  • Linksys E3000
    • Guest networks, USB port for external storage, UPnP media server, 4 GbE ports
  • Netgear WNDR3700-100NAS
    • Guest networks, USB port for external storage, DLNA server, 4 GbE ports
  • D-Link DIR-825
    • USB port for external storage, 4 GbE ports
  • Apple Airport Extreme
    • Guest networks, USB port for external storage, 3 GbE ports, familiar pretentious white Apple shine
I also plan on replacing the 802.11N cards in these PCs with new ones made by the same manufacturer as the router, and preferably ones that were tested with the router in the reviews. It's going to take a few days to figure out which one to get. This research is all about finding thorough reviews and sifting through as much user feedback as possible. I'll be blogging my findings. Game on.

Woz on the white iPhone 4

Step 1: Watch this video. Wozniak is quite the character.


Step 2: Forget about the camera issues for a second and note that issue he brings up with the proximity sensor. I've got the same proximity sensor issue with my white replacement screen. These screens were clearly defective, were supposed to be thrown out, and ended up on the 'tubes for sale. 

Step 3: Richard Lai had a great post today on Engadget about searching for real white iPhone parts abroad. Unfortunately, it's clear that there are quite a few knock-off parts floating around in the channel. The issues I am seeing could be because this is a knock-off, or because it was a defective Apple part. My money is on a defect, as my screen looks just like Rich's original which came directly from Apple. 

Now that you've completed all these steps, you still don't know all that much more about the white iPhone. Hey, it's still interesting.